Complete sets

COMPLETE SETS OF MY MOCs AVAILABLE, WITH INSTRUCTIONS AND ALL PARTS. Just go to SETS page, or click HERE

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

- Where do you buy your parts?

Directly buying sets, or for spare parts www.bricklink.com

- Can I buy a creation directly from you?

No you can’t, I don't sell directly my creations or copies of them.

- Can you make building instructions?

Usually no, when I create a MOC I don't use digital programs, so I don't have digital files and for made instructions I need to restart the creation stating for the 3d model, and this need a lot of work.

- Can you send me more pictures / video about a creation?

No, if something part of my creations are not correctly showed is because I don't want do to it...

- How many parts do you have?

Actually I don't know. But I think I have less that you think, maybe around 150.000-200.000.

- What software do you use to create instructions like the Land-Rover ones?

SR3D for the model it self
MLcad to get ready the steps and rotation step
Lpub3D to design the instructions
And finally a PDF editor to make the final instructions.

- Why usually you don't use LDD?

Because in LDD doesn't exist many parts that I need to built my creations.
Also I use some technics that LDD doesn't leave me to use.
SR3D is much better for technic creations.

- Can you build something for me?

Usually no, but in the past I had made a couple creations under request with great results.
If you have company, and you want special creation for you, you can contact with me, and we will can talk about it.

- Can you give me some tips to built Lego things?

I always say the same: you need some parts and a lot of patience. If with that you can't built cool things is because you need more patience.

- Which is best: first the digital model or with real parts?

Always first with real parts. When you build something small and simple maybe you can use first the PC software(bad idea anyway). But when you build a complex technic creation, it is completely useless made before the digital model, because none software can tell you if one mechanism will work, or if a structure will can support all necessary forces.

- Can I use any of your ideas?

Of course, you can use all things I have published, but if you use it please don't tell that you have design it...

- Are you building with LEGO part only?

Yes always. the only parts 100% not Lego I use are some rubber band and stikers.
Also I never modify, cut, glue or paint my parts.

87 comments:

Anonymous said...

Is it possible to get a parts list so I can order the parts before getting all the instructions?

Dave93rdeye88) said...

Hi there Fernando, my name's Dave, I'm also known as 3rdeye88 in many places, mostly Deviantart. I hope I've got the right email or place to comment because I could really use a little personal assistance on a MOC I'm trying to build right now. I'm trying to put together a flatbed truck with a bionicle flair to it(a cross between Lego city and Bionicle theme wise), and I want a simple Non-PF powered steering+suspension system that I just use a knob to turn, but would also like to have that realistic steering wheel rig like you seem to have in all your vehicles. Could you assist me by telling me what basic parts I need to make that work and a general idea how to put them together? I've cobbled together my own steering+suspension before with http://fav.me/d4svd8t but its not all that sturdy. I'm hoping I can find a way to make something sturdier and more responsive. Since lego has used several different techniques before I'm wondering which one works best to get steering+suspensions+steering wheel. I'm not asking you to explain every little detail, just point me in the right direction. I asked Sariel, and he just told me to get the Unimog or 4X4 crawler, looking at the instructions only confused me more. I'd really appreciate a few moments of your time to get me on the right path to a MOC with some basic realistic functions.

Thank you for your time.
Dave.

Sheepo said...

THe is not a easy way to explain it... try with the 8448 or 8880 instructions, they have a working steering wheel

Anonymous said...

what are you building now?

Sheepo said...

You will know it in a few months ;)

Anonymous said...

Just starting build on Land Rover. What tension or type of rubber bands work best on this model?

Sheepo said...

You only need buy the correct rubbers and follow the instructions.

Anonymous said...

Hi there! I love your work and came here with the tips from sariel, I bought his book.
Do you have written a book or plan to do so?
And one more thing :) :
I downloaded a few instructions now, but can't figure out yet, how exactly you motorize your gearboxes with the powerfunctions.
Could you please say: What powerfunctions do I need?
The 8879 IR Speed Remote Control + servomotor for several "positions" or do you use switches??
Or could you even list all powerfunction-sets you use in the bugatti ??
Thanks for your help!

Sheepo said...

Hi, I dom't have time to wrote a book, also my english is very poor.
To motorize my gearbox I usualy use a XL motor or a servo motor, and always with a normal 8885. It is much faster for change speeds than the 8879.
About the Veyron electric parts I have updated the entry in this website, please check it again ;)

Filip van den Bergh said...

Hi Sheepo,

I came here to ask if you're planning on making a book with No Starch as well, so I was disappointed to see your anwer. Please consider that Isogawa has created great books without any language. I'd buy a book with pictures and close-ups of your creations immediately.

Filip

Unknown said...

me puedes enseñar a como contruir uno ,nadamas quiero aprender

Unknown said...

me puedes enseñar como crear la parte interna del carro lo q es el motor con la , etc por q me fustaria hacer uno,

Galetes said...

Sheepo, que tiendas de bricklink recomendarías? no encuentro ninguna que tenga todas la que voy a pedir para mi MOC actual

Sheepo said...

Eso es lo habitual en bricklink, pedir a varias tiendas para un mismo MOC. Lo quiero hacer publicidad de ninguna tienda por aqui, pero busca en la República Checa...

Unknown said...

do you have a gearbox thats a sequential 8 foward neutral and reverse and do you also have a transfer box :)

Anonymous said...

Sheepo, i just had to comment on how amazing your Land Rover model is. i purchased the instruction from you and i am currently about half way through the main chassis section. sadly awaiting more pieces via the post. When i first received the instructions i was amazed at how detailed the model actually was and now i am about half way through it i am still shocked at how well things go together and work, much of what you have done hasn't even occurred to me to try, until now. i just thought you may like to hear that buying the instructions was money well spent because i am having a lot of fun building the model. thank you for making your instructions purchasable.

Anonymous said...

Any chance on a parts list / instructions for the CAT C15 engine used in the Peterbilt 379?

Anonymous said...

hi sheepo, can I ask how did you create your YouTube banner, I am having seriously frustrating and insanely annoying problems with it including blurriness and the inability to insert text without it getting cut in half. hope you can help :).

Sheepo said...

Very easy: Paint in windows. You don't need more, I did it in 5 minutes. The problem is I think you need to be partner to modify your youtube banner...

Anonymous said...

Thank you so much for that advice, my channel is now sorted, I never new it was that simple :D :D :D
don't know what you mean by partner though. Thanks again, have a great day.

Unknown said...

you could put the gearbox of Mustang GT500 in the lego 8110?

Sheepo said...

No, there is not enough space for a sequential gearbox.

Anonymous said...

Hello Sheepo, where do get your music from? can you just borrow it from YouTube?

Sheepo said...

I donwload the music in jamendo.com

Rafael said...

Hola Sheepo. ERES UN MAESTRO !! Dime, eres Ingeniero Mecanico o Automotriz? Extraordinarias creaciones. Lego deberia lanzar al menos un modelo tuyo comercialmente, por no decir todos (obviamente que te paguen regalias!! o que te contraten porque ningun Technic de Lego se acerca siquiera a los talones de tus creaciones). El Porsche 911 es simplemente EXTRAORDINARIO.

Saludos desde Peru y gracias por compartir tus creaciones!

Anonymous said...

How old you are when you start to build with Lego and do you ever ever try or modify your lego and how do you start whit building lego

Unknown said...

where you find the real dimensions of your creations?

Sheepo said...

Easy, you only need search on google some blueprints of the car you want

Unknown said...

Hey do you have any plans to make a pickup truck? The one I have in kind is the new US/Canada based pickups from GM. You could make the whole series from the 1/4 ton Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon, the 1/2 ton Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra and even the 3/4 and 1 ton Silverado and Sierra. You could also make attachments for them like tonneau covers, bed toppers, as well as a line of trailers from flatbed, to enclosed and cattle trailers as well. Even make showplows and fifth wheel hitch's. Not meaning to be rude I'm just saying my opinion. I believe they would be quite a success. Thanks

Anonymous said...

Is it possible to use any of your gearboxes on the MPS system, or is it too difficult? Because I would be interested in buying the gearbox instructions, but you don't offer them separately... Is there any chance that you will sell the gearbox instructions separately in the future???

Sheepo said...

It is hard to explain, of course you can joint both, but the MPS and my cars are made in different scales (1:8 vs 1:10), that different of size is very important to get free space for the gearbox.

Unknown said...

I just started getting into technic cars and I need some help on what parts to get for a front and rear independent suspension. Would it be possible for you to list the part numbers? I was also wondering which wheel hub to get to connect the wheels. I was thinking the part number 32495c01 on bricklink or maybe the part number 92909 with either 92908, 11950, or 11949. Please help. Thanks

Sheepo said...

The easyer way to get many parts for suspensions is buying a set with complex suspension, like the 8070, 8880, 8448, or even the new 42029.

Unknown said...

Thanks for the help. I have one more question though. What stiffness do you recommend for shocks?

Sheepo said...

That depend of the size and weigth of your car... but probably are more usefull the harder ones(yellow)

Unknown said...

Thanks for the help.

thomas said...

Genious constructions Especially the defender. I am planing the Better 4x4, Land cruiser Hzj 75 (-; .i See one Problem. I am using the unimog tyres and according to my scale the round front lights which are very important for the appearence are exactly 2,5 studs. Do You have Any idea? Greetings Thomas

Sheepo said...

You can try with a little rim. 2.5 studs are 20mm, and there are a rim with 18mm of diameter, ref: 56902.

Anonymous said...

Hi there, I tried to download the SR 3D builder on windows vista but every time I try to open the program it gives me an error message (some items not found). Tried to download from many sites however after installation the same error appears when trying to open. Any idea on the cause?

Sheepo said...

Maybe you need to update your directx drivers

Anonymous said...

Thanks will try to update.
By the way, your inventions are absolutely brilliant and out of this world! I want to try and do a BMW M3 E30 cabriolet , have you tried any BMW's?

Anonymous said...

Hola Fernando, me llamo Angel y tengo un hijo de 16 años verdadero apasionado del Technic y NXT, al cuál me encargué de suministrarle todo lo que me era posible, incluyendo planos de Land Rover y piezas de bricklinck . No se consiguieron todas.... y, como gran seguidor tuyo que es,(no quiere pintar ni adaptar nada) lo tiene innacabado. Deseaba regalarle estas fiestas algo potente y nuevo, pero sólo encuentro el MINI 10242 ( El BEETLE 10187 se me vá de precio...). Ya leí el primer comentario sobre los listados de piezas, pero tengo que intentarlo: ¿Quién me podría suministar el lote necesario para construir tú BEETLE TYPE 1?.( Sin motores, ni mando). Tenerlo para regalo todo junto, después descargar el plano. O, descargarlo y hacer pedido a brick (muy lioso para mí). Lógicamente pagando el precio del tiempo y las piezas. Como gran aficionado al modelismo estático y profesional de la automoción, tengo que reconocer que ver tus creaciones con LEGO son "sencillamente" IMPRESIONANTES. Gracias por ellas y por todo, un saludo.

Sheepo said...

Hola Angel, Si me mandas un email te puedo pasar un par de contactos que quizá te puedan ayudar, aunque a estas alturas de diciembre ya será casi imposible conseguir las piezas. Ellos ya te dirán lo que corresponda. Saludos

Anonymous said...

What is the best motor to use for steering?

Sheepo said...

I recomend a PF servo motor or a PF M motor

Anonymous said...

Thanks. Do you also recommend return to center steering?

Sheepo said...

Depend of the use you you will give to our MOC, if you will go slow, like a trial truck better without return to center, but to go fast better with it.

Anonymous said...

Thank you for the help

Anonymous said...

Are 4 shock absorbers to much for a suspension system and to hard or is 2 the best like the ones in your examples?

Unknown said...

Hi sheepo, how did you add the titles on the top of your webpage (home, about me, faq etc..)???
Thanks

Sheepo said...

In the admin page. you can add all pages you want, then just add a gadget with the pages.

Anonymous said...

Hallo, ich bin vor kurzem mit dem Bau des Mustangs fertig geworden. er sieht ja recht gut aus aber er fährt nicht wenn ich auf die räder stelle. Und ich weis nicht mehr weiter hab schon sämtliche sachen ausprobiert aber es führt zu keinem ergebnis der motor zuckt kurz und das wars.

Unknown said...

J'ai acheter vos instruction pour le land rover , mais j'ai toujours rien reçu, ni par mail, ni par courrier .
Est-ce normal !?
Michel

Sheepo said...

Please send me an email from the same email account you used to buy the instructions.

Unknown said...

Are you going to make a Lamborghini?

Sheepo said...

Yes, you can combine both chassis with both bodyworks.

Unknown said...

I love your stuff, you inspire me

Anonymous said...

I want to do a project; i want to build a rc vehicle with tracks and a snow blower(2 feet width and 1,5 feet up) in front of it. Im asking you sheepo if its realistic and if yes, what scale to use. Also if i can build with an LPE.

Thanks!

Anonymous said...

Dude you are handsome.

Anonymous said...

Hi Sheepo I'm 14 and I want to us the land rover but I'm too young to be on PayPal. Can you help with payment options?

Sheepo said...

Hi, write me an email and maybe I will can help you

Anonymous said...

Hi Sheepo, I am from India. I have been making a MOC of my own using parts from Set 42037(formula Off Roader). I am encountering a problem with the power transmission. I am using constant velocity joints (from the formula off roader set) to transmit torque from the differential to the wheel hubs, but there seems to be a problem. The Left wheel is receiving no torque at all. It does not rotate at all but when I hold the Rotating wheel then it starts to rotate very fast, just like how it should happen. I switched the hubs, the CV joints and also replaced the gears but nothing is happening. I even lubricated the hubs, joints and shafts but nothing is happening. What should I do?

Sheepo said...

Probably you have to much friction in side where the wheel doesn't move, maybe the wheel is not correctly placed, try to change the wheel hubs in both sides, on to each other

Anonymous said...

Thanks Sheepo. I'll try that.

Anonymous said...

Hi Sheepo it is me from India again. You were right. One of the wheel hubs has too much friction in it. I am using the part no. 11950 hubs. The point of contact of the hub case and the actual rotating component which couples to the wheel is too high.Those two parts were separately given in the set and I had to join them together. But now I am trying to remove the two parts again to lubricate the case from the inside and they are stuck very fast. Can you suggest a method to pull them apart or tell me a better method to lubricate the hub and reduce friction? Buying a new hub is impossible for me as the final payable cost on BrickLink is completely out of my budget due to the high exchange rate.

Sheepo said...

Try with a knife, insert it between both parts and turn it

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the advice Sheepo. I'll try that

Anonymous said...

Hi Sheepo, It is me from India again. My rear suspension setup is working really great, thanks to you. But I have a few doubts. My MOC weighs approximately 800 g. I have put no body over it. It is only a spaceframe chassis and is a rally car like vehicle. Which motor should I put for propulsion? The L-Motor or the XL Motor? I want the car to be very fast but rugged. To that end I have incorporated differential locks, consisting of L shaped beams on both suspension sides which forcefully stop power supply either hub by stopping the CV joints, so power forcefully is rerouted to the other hub. Do you think it will work at high speeds or should I consider something else? Moreover is it necessary to have self centering on the car? If so how can I integrate it with my vehicle's front end? I have borrowed suspension setup from the Formula off Roader Set(42037) albeit with lower ride height. In fact all my parts are from that set. I have adopted many vital systems from that set (with modifications) on my car. Please help me.

Anonymous said...

Sheepo, one more doubt. My vehicle has no gearbox(I am short of gears). Do you think it is necessary to have a gearbox on a vehicle like mine? Please help me. Sorry to bother you


Thanking you
Sumedh from India

Sheepo said...

"Very fast" and "Lego" are not a good mix of words hahaha, If you want power just use the most powerfull motor you can get, in this case the XL is the answer to you.

If you will use the car on low grip surfaces like sand, forget differntials, you you need them. A diff lock is a solution, but it is not ideal, because you will lost many power in friction in the extra gears.

For high speeds the auto center steering is a must have, you can use a servo or any other mechanism working with a normal motor..

Forget the gearbox, remember this fact: more gears = more friction = less power to the wheels

Anonymous said...

That's true. Thanks for your advice Sheepo

Anonymous said...

Hello Sheepo. It is Sumedh here. In the MOC that I am building, I have encountered a problem. The rack and pinion system and the hubs have too much play in them. The suspension is completely stock Lego 42037 suspension. Can you suggest something to cure this problem?
Thanks and sorry to bother you.

Sheepo said...

There is not solution for that problem, all cars has the same issue

Anonymous said...

Allright Thanks

Anonymous said...

Hello sheepo, I am thinking of building your 300SL Gullwing, but one thing is interesting to me. Why didn't you use servo motor for steering system? Wouldn't it be better idea?

Sheepo said...

I don't like servo motors, they are too big and very limited.

Anonymous said...

OK, thank you for the answer!

Unknown said...

Hi what is the difference between RC and manual?

Sheepo said...

RC uses power functions motors to some funcions and Manual don't use any motor

Anonymous said...

Sheepo I want to incorporate a transmission brake for the rear wheels in my new MoC. I am using cv joints and hub based independent multilink suspension. Can you suggest any method to do so without using gears/using minimum no. of gears?

Anonymous said...

Hello.
I have a problem with SR3D, when I run it, despite following your instructions, it displays an error message telling me that a piece has some line of error codes and that I must rectify it.
Can you help me?
thank you

Sheepo said...

Hi, try to reinstall the parts using the LDraw library

sticky said...

Hello.
I bought the instructions for your Land Rover 110. I cannot see what makes the sequential gear box change gear. There does not seem to be a link from the chassis to the gear box.
Any advice to help me and save from pulling out what little hair I have left.
Thank you

Jim

Anonymous said...

Hello Sheepo. I am trying to build an active suspension system using Lego Technic and Mindstorms EV3 brick with servo motors for my college project. I basically want a suspension system that will compensate for pitching and body roll just like the one found on the Williams FW15 F1 car i.e. it will keep the chassis as flat as possible during cornering, accelerating and braking. Is using the pneumatic system(Struts with reservoirs and 2 pumps controlled by Mindstorms Servo Motors) an appropriate choice? Do the pneumatic struts act fast enough? Or should I go for something else? Also what kind of suspension layout will work best with this kind of system? Please guide me. Also, is SR3D better or Stud.io?

Thanks

Sheepo said...

I don't recomend to you pneumatic system, it is very slow and no precise, it is better if you use normal springs and control with the servo the possition of the shock absorver. Stud.io don't work in my PC and I don't know why, so I can not give you a proper oppinion

Anonymous said...

Thanks a lot for your advice Sheepo.I am very grateful to you.

Anonymous said...

Hello Sheepo. I want to build a 8 speed gearbox but I do not have sufficient gears to build a conventional gearbox as I have only 2 driving rings. Is a planetary gearbox with a 2 speed conventional gearbox as a range selector a good choice? Please help.

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